Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronographs have a relatively short, but fascinating history. The very first Royal Oak Chronograph was introduced within the separate Royal Oak Offshore line and this served as a vital step along the way to the main Royal Oak collection receiving its own chronograph models soon after.
In this blog post, we will provide an overview of the history of Royal Oak Chronographs, and take a more in-depth look at three of the most popular model updates that have been released over the years.
Brief History of Royal Oak Chronographs
Audemars Piguet first introduced a chronograph watch within the Royal Oak collection in 1993, when the brand launched the Royal Oak Offshore. Nicknamed ‘The Beast’, it looked significantly less elegant than the previous Royal Oak models, and had a strong, masculine appearance, aided by its asymmetric design, extended case and busy dial.
This design was then modified slightly for the second Royal Oak model with chronograph functionality, which was launched in 1998 as part of the main Royal Oak line. With this model, some of the ‘bulk’ of the previous model was reduced, the dial was made less cluttered, and the asymmetry was less immediately obvious.
The first chronograph model in the main Royal Oak line was available in a choice of stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold and white gold. Additionally, a diamond paved version was also released, offering an extra sense of luxury.
In 2003, this design was then followed up with the release of the Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails model, which featured elements that more closely resembled the Royal Oak Offshore chronograph from 1993. However, the dial was less cluttered than the 1993 model, and the watch was also made available with the option of a rubber strap.
Popular Royal Oak Chronograph Models
In the sections below, we take a closer look at the three most popular Royal Oak chronograph models easily found on the market today, exploring their defining features and how the watches have evolved over time.
Reference 26300 (2008-2012)
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 26300 was produced from 2008 until 2012 and features a caliber 2385 movement. Visually, it resembles the Royal Oak Chronograph released in 1998, although the case was actually redesigned and consists of three parts held together by screws. The case measures 39mm in diameter.
One of the defining features of the timepiece is a single-fold deployant, which is in the shape of the initials ‘AP’. The sub dials resemble the less cluttered look associated with the 1998 model, and all dials have the same proportions. Buyers have the choice of a white, blue or brown dial color, and the chronopushers need to be unscrewed before use.
A relatively simple way to identify this particular model is by looking for the combination of a triangular hour marker at the 12 o’clock position, and rectangular dial markers at the 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. Steel, yellow gold, rose gold and white gold versions are available, with the gold versions often being sold with a leather or rubber strap.
Reference 26320 (2012-2017)
The next Royal Oak Chronograph model was released by AP in 2012, marking the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak collection, and it remained in production until 2017. It also represented a more visually significant update, with the case size increasing to 41mm and the clasp switching to a ‘butterfly’ double-deployant clasp.
One interesting note is the fact that the watch retained the same movement from the previous model. Given the size of the movement in comparison to the larger dial, it meant the date display window became more centered. The watch was released in stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, and in a rose gold variant with diamond paving.
The triangular marker at the 12 o’clock position was replaced by a double index marker, while the rectangular markers were extended. Again, the chronopushers on this model need to be unscrewed prior to use. Silver, black, white and blue dial colors are available, with the silver being exclusive to rose gold and the white being exclusive to steel.
Reference 26331 (2017-Present)
The Ref. 26331 was introduced in 2017 and saw some significant changes. On this model, the chronopushers are able to be used without unscrewing the safety around the pusher first. The dial markers and the hour and minute hands were widened, and the upper two sub dials were made slightly larger. Meanwhile, the sub-dial located at the 6 o’clock position was made slightly smaller than it was on the previous model, resulting in a less uniformed appearance.
With that being said, the model did retain some features, including the larger 41mm case size and the same movement. It also makes use of the more modern ‘butterfly’ double-deployant clasp, much like the previous model. The rose gold version is available with a blue or brown dial, while the steel model is available in black, blue, or with the white ‘Panda’ dial, complete with black sub-dials. The yellow gold model, meanwhile, has a blue dial.
Perhaps the most controversial change is the placement of the date display window. On the previous model, it was positioned midway between the 4 o’clock and 5 o’clock position. On the Ref. 26331 it is located closer to the 5 o’clock position, in order to allow for equal spacing between the newly re-sized sub dials.
Which Royal Oak Chronograph Should You Buy?
All three of the most popular Royal Oak Chronographs are exquisitely made luxury timepieces from one of the top brands around and you cannot go too far wrong buying any of them. With that being said, When making a purchasing decision, there are some factors to take into account that may be able to assist you.
One of the biggest differences between the models is the fact that the Ref. 26300 is 39mm, while the Ref. 26320 and Ref. 26331 are both 41mm. So the most suitable option may depend on the size of your wrist and your preferences regarding size. The Ref. 26320 has a uniformed dial, while the more recent Ref. 26331 is a little more chaotic in that department and this will again come down to which of those two looks you like best.
All three watches use the same movement, while there are some more subtle differences to bear in mind regarding the hands and the dial markers. Overall, however, price is also likely to be a factor and you might expect to pay more for the most recent model. Regardless of your eventual choice, you will find the best price at Jaztime.com.
